The temples of Angkor draw most travellers to Cambodia, but the country holds far more than one archaeological site, however extraordinary. Between the colonial architecture of Phnom Penh, the coastal towns along the Gulf of Thailand, and a food scene built on fermented fish paste, lime, and palm sugar, Cambodia rewards visitors who set aside more than a quick temple run. This guide covers what to know before landing, so the trip feels manageable rather than overwhelming.
Most nationalities can get a Cambodian e-visa online before departure, and it takes about three business days to process. The fee runs around 36 USD, and you’ll need a passport-sized photo and a credit card. Visas on arrival are also available at major airports and land borders for roughly 30 USD, but lines can be long during peak season, so the e-visa saves time.
Bring a printed copy of your e-visa approval, since some border officials still ask for paper documentation. Your passport needs at least six months of validity and one blank page. Double-check the visa’s validity window, since it’s tied to your entry date, not your booking date.
Cambodia has three seasons rather than the usual two: cool and dry from November through February, hot and dry from March through May, and wet from June through October. November to February is the most comfortable stretch, with daytime temperatures around 82°F and lower humidity, which makes walking around Angkor far more pleasant.
The hot season pushes temperatures past 95°F, and visiting the temples midday during this stretch is genuinely uncomfortable. The wet season isn’t a dealbreaker, though — rain tends to fall in short, heavy bursts in the afternoon, leaving mornings clear, and the countryside turns a deep green that photographs well. Just expect some flooding on rural roads if you’re heading to Ratanakiri or Mondulkiri.
A one-day pass to Angkor costs 37 USD, a three-day pass costs 62 USD, and a seven-day pass costs 72 USD. The multi-day passes are usable across a ten-day or one-month window. Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm are the highlights most people know from photos, but the complex holds over a thousand temple structures spread across roughly 400 square kilometers. Rushing through in a single day means missing sites like Banteay Srei, with its pink sandstone carvings, or Preah Khan, which sees a fraction of the crowds.
Hire a licensed guide for at least the first day — they cost around 25 to 35 USD and can explain the religious and historical context that turns a pile of stones into something meaningful. Start early, ideally before 6 a.m., both to catch sunrise at Angkor Wat and to beat the heat that builds by mid-morning. Those planning a longer, more curated itinerary sometimes turn to operators offering luxury Cambodia tours, which pair private guides and air-conditioned transport with access to lesser-visited temples away from the main tour bus routes.
Phnom Penh’s history includes the Khmer Rouge period, and sites like Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Choeung Ek Killing Fields are somber but important stops for understanding modern Cambodia. Set aside a full morning for both, and consider hiring a guide who can add context that the audio tours don’t fully cover.
The city also has a lighter side worth exploring. The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda showcase Khmer architecture and gilded Buddha statues, while the Central Market’s art deco dome houses gold jewellery stalls and street food vendors selling num banh chok, a fish-based noodle dish eaten for breakfast. The riverside promenade along the Tonle Sap is a good spot for an evening walk, especially around sunset when locals gather for outdoor aerobics classes.
Tuk-tuks are the default transport in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh, and negotiating the fare before getting in is standard practice. You can expect to pay 2 to 4 USD for short rides within a city. Ride-hailing apps like Grab and PassApp operate in both cities and remove the guesswork, showing a fixed price upfront. For longer trips between cities, buses run by companies like Giant Ibis offer air-conditioned coaches with wifi for around 15 USD between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.
Domestic flights connect Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Sihanoukville in under an hour and cost between 40 and 80 USD one-way. You should consider that option if you have limited time. Riverboats also run between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh during the wet season, when water levels allow it, offering a slower but scenic alternative.
The US dollar is used interchangeably with the Cambodian riel, and most prices in tourist areas are quoted in dollars. Riel comes into play mainly for change under a dollar, so it’s worth keeping small bills on hand. ATMs are widely available in cities and typically dispense US dollars.
While many Cambodians speak English well, learning a few Khmer words and phrases is a good idea. For example, Susadei [soos-a-day] is the informal way to say hello. And a polite “thank you” – Arkun [ar-koon] – always goes a long way. Tipping isn’t obligatory but is increasingly expected in restaurants and for guides, with 1 to 2 USD per day being standard for drivers and guides.
Cambodia works best for first-time visitors who build in enough time to slow down rather than sprint between checklist sites. A trip that pairs three or four days at Angkor with time in Phnom Penh and a few days on the coast near Kep or Koh Rong gives a fuller sense of the country than the temples alone. Book the e-visa early, plan around the dry season if possible, and leave room in the itinerary for the parts of Cambodia that don’t make it into the postcards.